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The horizontal distance between two successive troughs is called the wave height.

A) True
B) False

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Briefly describe how tsunami are generated and include a description of characteristics such as wavelength and wave speed. Do tsunami behave as shallow-water waves? Why or why not and how does this influence their movement in shallow versus deeper water? What would the shoreline look like when the trough of tsunami arrives?

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Tsunami are shallow-water waves generate...

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Rogue waves are generated by destructive interference patterns of ocean swells.

A) True
B) False

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Constructive interference results in larger waves whereas destructive interference produces:


A) capillary waves.
B) rouge waves.
C) smaller waves.
D) swells.
E) tsunamis.

F) B) and D)
G) D) and E)

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Wave speed is equal to:


A) wave height divided by frequency.
B) wave height divided by period.
C) wavelength divided by fetch.
D) wavelength divided by frequency.
E) wavelength divided by period.

F) D) and E)
G) A) and C)

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The first wave that forms when the wind begins to blow across the ocean surface is a:


A) capillary wave.
B) seiche.
C) tide.
D) tsunami.
E) wind waves.

F) A) and D)
G) B) and E)

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Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question. Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question.    -The trough of the wave corresponds to the number: A) 1)  B) 2)  C) 3)  D) 4)  E) 5) -The trough of the wave corresponds to the number:


A) 1)
B) 2)
C) 3)
D) 4)
E) 5)

F) A) and E)
G) None of the above

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Deep-water waves move faster than shallow water waves because they are not slowed by friction with the ocean bottom.

A) True
B) False

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A storm surge might form in association with a seafloor avalanche.

A) True
B) False

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If a surfer wishes to have a really long ride, what type of wave should he or she look for?


A) gravity waves
B) plunging breakers
C) spilling breakers
D) surf
E) swells

F) A) and B)
G) A) and C)

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Tsunamis can be generated by geological activity that causes a sudden change in sea floor elevation such as submarine fault motion.

A) True
B) False

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Match the term or person with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all. -ratio of wave height to wavelength at which waves break


A) wavelength/20
B) 1/period
C) steepness = 1:7
D) 5.67 depth(ft) \sqrt{\operatorname{depth}(f t) }
E) 1.25 L( meters ) \sqrt{L(\text { meters }) }
F) wavelength/period
G) wave height
H) wavelength/2

I) D) and E)
J) B) and G)

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The orbital motion of water molecules in a wave goes down to a depth equal to the wavelength divided by two.

A) True
B) False

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A curling wave formed over an air pocket is called a plunging breaker.

A) True
B) False

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True

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question. Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question.    -The crest is the portion of the wave corresponding to the number: A) 1)  B) 2)  C) 3)  D) 4)  E) 5) -The crest is the portion of the wave corresponding to the number:


A) 1)
B) 2)
C) 3)
D) 4)
E) 5)

F) B) and E)
G) All of the above

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Waves that are breaking along the shore and are forming a curling crest over an air pocket are called:


A) gravity waves.
B) plunging breakers.
C) spilling breakers.
D) surf.
E) swells.

F) B) and C)
G) C) and E)

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The diameter of a wave orbital at the surface is equal to:


A) wave height.
B) wave height/wavelength.
C) wavelength.
D) wavelength/wave period.
E) wave period.

F) B) and C)
G) C) and D)

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The height of a wave depends upon:


A) fetch.
B) fetch and wind speed.
C) fetch, wind duration, and wind speed.
D) wind duration.
E) wind duration and wind speed.

F) A) and E)
G) All of the above

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C

Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question. Refer to the figure below detailing wave characteristics. Use the information on the figure to answer the following question.    -The wavelength is labeled with the number: A) 1)  B) 2)  C) 3)  D) 4)  E) 5) -The wavelength is labeled with the number:


A) 1)
B) 2)
C) 3)
D) 4)
E) 5)

F) D) and E)
G) A) and B)

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C

Match the term with the appropriate phrase. You may use each answer once, more than once or not at all. -disturbing force


A) movement of air across the air-water interface
B) destructive interference
C) movement of water of different densities along a water-water interface
D) the energy that causes ocean waves to form
E) movement of different air masses along an air-air interface
F) waves at the ocean surface involving longitudinal and transverse waves
G) constructive interference
H) reflection

I) A) and C)
J) F) and H)

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